Pretty Shady!

I wanted to share with you all an email I received from one of my fans. To protect the Innocent, he will stay anonymous. It seems that even during these times the watch companies are getting greedy by the bloody second. He recently purchased a Wyler Geneve watch for Christmas from an authorized dealer. I mean I have to admit, I have seen, smelt and touched one of they’re timepieces in London. They are pretty well made. This client is a very upscale well informed collector with a multimillion dollar business in the service based industry, the only problem is that he didn’t get what he ordered. So he explains to me that he orders the titanium chrono with a black dial and orange numbers and subdials, Wylers website has a picture of it very clearly, and wherever there is orange it’s supposed to be the same light orange color. unfortunately for him he was the victim of this special skittles edition chrono.

I have posted the picture of the watch that he received, and I will tell you this is downright unacceptable! I mean you don’t get this kind of stupidity when you buy low end watches, and this watch retails for $12,600, it ain’t cheap. The dial has like three colors going on at the same time. Wyler Geneve never told they’re AD’s about the dial change and they still advertise it in magazines and represent it in magazines the way it should be. This is a clear case of misrepresentation on Wyler’s behalf, and the sad thing is they haven’t done shit to rectify it. Don’t get me wrong after pleading with the authorized dealer for over a month and spending hundreds of dollars in unnecessary interest on his credit card and shipping charges twice, he was able to get a refund on his credit card. Wyler should have contacted the customer directly and try to make amends, but instead they treated him like just another bleeding number!. Wyler should understand that the collector, watch enthusiast who makes or brakes a brand, and by failing to compensate or acknowledge a very serious F-Up on they’re part is going to result in lost business and lack of brand loyalty for the future. The client was excited like a little child to open the package he received as a surprise gift from his wife Christmas Morning and all he received was disappointment and grief.

It is so easy for the watch companies to resolve a situation like this, but they’re ego’s are so inflated and they get such big heads, that it couldn’t possible fit up they’re own ass when they make such huge mistakes, This should be a huge lesson for all the watch companies to take notice in how important it is to make the customer feel like they actually give a shit! All that needed to be done in this particular case is a phone call or letter explaining what may or may not have happened and some sort of alternative option, perhaps offer the client another more limited watch at the same price he paid, or something to keep him in a Wyler watch. Well it’s too late now, because they have to deal with the embarrassment and shame of turning consumers away! Any of you out there considering this brand, don’t! You will only get a temporary hardon until the watch arrives and then deal with the aftermath, which is pretty shady!

Just Say NO To Fakes!

In the latest BITCH SLAP campaign, I mean in the latest Ad Campaign by the same people who put on SIHH watch salon in Geneva every year, Finally a message heard loud and bloody clear as day! To raise awareness and stop the spread of fake Swiss Watches being produced, an ad campaign entitled “Fake Watches Are For Fake People” on the top of the ad, the background is all white, in the middle is a hand with a fake ladies Rolex watch, and on the bottom a message saying” Be Authentic, Buy Real”. I almost feel like this ad was put together by the same people who bring you those bold to the point IWC ad’s which are quite ingenious. To be fare, there is a real issue with fake watches in the world today. They keep getting better and better, and though imitation is the highest form of flattery, it somehow always manage to cheapen the image of a brand when the fakes are available. Just to give you some insight with some staggering figures, a reliable source estimates that nearly 40 million fakes watches are produced per year, the shocking thing is that in 2007 only 20 million genuine Swiss Watches were made for export.

This kind of bullshit is part of the reason why some watch brands are not able to focus on the new watches being produced because they are fighting for intellectual property with these glorified tracers who make the watch companies look bad. Even for a laugh, anytime I have bought something fake obviously non watch related, I feel like a dirty whore. It’s almost feels like wearing a frigging toupee. The profits estimated on Fakes are about one billion dollars. If you need to buy a fake, that’s really sad. Save up and by the real thing you will feel better and won’t feel like such a Wally! The watch companies collectively who are being targeted by the counterfeiters should share that billion dollars and invest it into, R&D, Marketing, Watchmaking Schools and Facilities and charities.

I am so against the making and buying of replicas or fakes that I would rather wear a TIMEX. Not only does it cost watch companies million of dollars to fight, but the money being generated by these counterfeits help fund terrorist groups and other criminal organizations in propagating child labor. So I urge all of you to grow a pair and Just Say No To Fakes!

Too Little Too Late!

In life, people say it’s never to late to reinvent yourself or start something new. I agree, but it depends on what the hell we are talking about? I am all for change and creating new stuff. I will always try no matter what the odds? When it comes to watchmaking, it’s a little riskier than that. I feel watch companies today have no clue what they are doing, and for some they clearly get they’re ideas off of a McDonald’s Happy Meal toy. It’s pathetic really. Some things are worth discovering. I am all for movement changes, collaborations with other manufacturers if it’s the right fit, limited productions, and even strap changes. I guess I just have a problem when a company such as Cartier who is known for they’re Santos, Pasha, and Tank watches are trying to conquer the complicated technical world. In some ways, it’s really impressive that they would do this, because I know they have gigantic arrogant French Balls. I guess for them it’s a billboard, having a very complicated timepiece that they normally would never produce because it gets people talking, and it may or may not attract that consumer who is into the highly complicated shit to take notice to a brand he would have never thought off. From that angle it’s very smart. The amazing thing is that the new Cartier Monopusher Tourbillon is actually a really good looking watch with some serious complication.

For this, Cartier partnered up with Renauld & Papi to construct this mechanical wonder. Two complex movements were built to make this watch, which has been in the making since 2005. First the monopusher chronograph movement, and second the Tourbillon movement. The bottom line no matter how incredible or beautiful or limited a piece like this is, collectors are not buying Toubillons any more due to two key factors. The Russians, and JLC. The Russian Customer has been the biggest buyer of Tourbillons in the world. They love they’re opulence and they love they’re complication, but they, like the rest of the complicated clientele only like buying Breguet, or Patek for those sort of things because they are elitist who know they’re shit forwards and backwards.If you have a hundred thousand dollars to burn in this very challenging economy,

I doubt no matter how stupid you are, that you are gonna run to the Cartier boutique and buy it, because you might as well play Russian Roulette and blow your brains out, because this watch will be worth not even a quarter of it’s original retail value, because the reality is, there is no demand. The second key Factor is JLC, who is a sister brand to Cartier, when they showed the world that they can build a Rose Gold Tourbillon for under forty thousand dollars, it sent the entire tourbillon market into a bloody uproar, and people realized Why should I spend hundreds of thousands of dollars, when I can spend less than $50,000 and purchase an in house manufactured turbillons from one of the finest watch brands in the world?

I say very respectfully of course to Cartier, leave it to the masters of complications, Like the Patek’s, Breguet’s and A Lange & Sohne’s of the world to give the world what they are best at, THe Tourbillons, Minute Repeaters, and Perpetual Calenders , and stick to your brand philosophy and what you are known for. Like Rolex, who I respect immensely because of the fact that no matter what the trends are for almost one hundred years they haven’t budged or moved for anyone, because they’re brand philosophy has been so clear and yielded them triumphant success even in the middle of this giant Global Crisis. It was a valiant effort for Cartier, but unfortunately too little too late.

pic courtesy of http://www.perpetuelle.com

Times Are Changing

We live in a world where the Internet has taken over our lives. It has made everything really impersonal and really convenient at the same time. Whether we want to purchase movie tickets, buy that flashy car, or get laid, it can all be done with a click of a button. The watch industry’s approach overall to supporting Internet business has been very strictly against this, until now. Tag Heuer one of the hottest selling brands worldwide, will be the first to support Internet business very selectively. It was absolutely inevitable. People want convenience without the headache of disappointment and worry. In my opinion this is a very smart move on they’re part. Because they are owned by conglomerate giant LVMH, this sort of business has already been tested and branded with they’re e-commerce site eluxury which offers everything in they’re fashion repertoire for men and women including Louis Vutton, Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford, from ready to wear, to designer handbags, to sunglasses it’s all available online with their consent and control. In fashion when things go out of season, they are forced to burn the items or seriously reduce the price, and they even have a sale section.

Even though the customer likes going in to the store to try on the timepiece and feel like he just got blown after making that first huge purchase, the access and availability of convenience is becoming a far greater priority. The watch companies need to first start being selective in picking the right retail partners to test this with, so that once it’s fool proof the rest can follow blindly like sheep. This is going to eventually put a lot of non authorized dealers out of business which is good for the consumer, because at the end of the day no matter how much convenience is available, the consumer also wants the assurance that he or she will be taken care of if there are any problems. When you buy from a non authorized dealer you never know what you are going to get. Most of the time it says Rolex, but then you got a tranny Hong Kong movement inside. That’s the risk you take right now when you buy a Rolex Online from an unauthorized dealer. Now that times are changing, everybody will have the best of both worlds and will be able to buy with satisfaction and peace of mind!

pic courtesy of http://www.tagheuer.com

For The People!

In a recent poll, on my site, taken by YOU my readership, There was no question hands down 10 to 1 that didn’t like the new Aquatimer line made by IWC for SIHH 2009. Thank You for voting! Keep it alive. Don’t forget to Vote on my latest poll. The more of you out there that vote, the easier it is for me to send this stuff to the watch companies and show them what the people really want, so they don’t keep making the same shitty mistakes!

Rock On and Flyback!

JLC Meets Ugly Betty

If your an Ugly Betty Fan, you tuned in last Thurs night as usual. In an attempt to be more part of pop culture than necessary, media seeking whores, I mean master watch brand JLC was featured in the show. Look, product placement is really good for a brand, especially when portrayed in the right way, otherwise it just screams desperation! I understand that TV is not real. The problem is that when you are trying to send a message through product placement, the viewer and or your target audience can get the wrong idea if the intent is not represented correctly. This was definitely the kind of shiz going on in this particular instance.

The brand is not some kind of bumble gum toy watch that is trendy and trying to be fashionable like some other brands, not to mention names, OK Zenith. A brand that has this kind of artistry and years of craftsmanship and history should only be presented with class and prestige, instead it felt like it was shown as a ready to wear collection from Dolce and Gabanna. The end result was that the brand was mentioned over and over again which is good, but it was said in that very snooty french elitist way, which can intimidate and make someone sound like a moron if mispronounced. I give credit to the brand, who is trying to reinvent they’re image. Sometimes, you just have to accept that there is no need to reinvent the bloody wheel, and let the product be the hero!

pics courtesy of http://www.abc.com and http://www.jaeger lecoultre.com

The Arrogance of AP

The old saying goes, Why Can A Dog Lick His Balls? Because He can! This is sort of the approach with super watch brand Audemars Piguet. As I have never been a huge AP supporter because they do nothing for me and kind of make me want to puke, I feel I can still objectively report that the key to they’re success has been the Royal Joke or the Royal Oak line as it is so fondly known by millions of collectors worldwide. I mean when the hell will a million variations of the same watch stop getting old? This is really taking the piss out of the collector in my opinion, because there is nothing novel or interesting about reproducing the same watch over and over again and calling it new. Let’s face it, nobody gives a toss about the Millenary Collection or the Jules Audemars Collection because they are bloody expensive and ugly for the most part. The sad thing is that this translates to the Authorized Dealer when placing orders has to buy so much of the garbage, before they are entitled to the Good Stuff. Well, I got news for all of you because at the end of the day, the good stuff Royal Oakes and the Offshore Line ain’t that great!

In the words of my dear friend SH, who is an avid Audemars Piguet collector. When the F are they going to use the new Cases for their Royal Oak Offshore line, they keep bloody recycling the old one. What AP, may or may not realize from a consumer perspective is that by doing these things, it antagonizes the consumer and makes him or her have serious doubts when purchasing the next peace. The delivery schedules suck, and by the time the watch is delivered the price has gone through the roof by 10 percent because they cleverly managed to add a price increase on an already overpriced product, which is just downright infuriating and wrong.

I will always give credit where credit is due. They managed to capture and dominate the market with the Royal Oak and Offshore client, they have managed to get celebrities to ask for special editions be created and they have limited they’re distribution which has been air tight on limited product, creating demand and hence increasing the value of that product in some cases almost four times the original retail value. They have been extremely innovative in being the first brand to make use of interesting alloys and composites that have influenced so many brands over the years, and are specialists in finishing with they’re highly complicated pieces. However, in these recessionary times especially, it is vital the watch companies understand that the consumer shelling out thousands upon thousands of dollars for a timepiece doesn’t want to be treated just like another flipping number, they want to be comforted and be treated with respect as they should!

So I really advise collectors out there, if your going to shell out 30k on a watch that’s probably going to take years to get and something that looks exactly what you have on your wrist from years back, consider your options, expand your collection and get more for your money before considering being a part of the Arrogance of AP.

pic courtesy of http://www.perpetuelle.com

From Master Jeweler To Master Watchmaker

So, those of you who aren’t familiar. Harry Winston has become the household name for all the gold digging women out there who manage to swindle their way to marry the elite men, to fall back on when purchasing a diamond over the years. His reputation precedes him as he passed away in the seventies. Even today his name lives strong with Harry Winston boutiques all over the world. Personally, I have never been a fan, but can respect his vision and have been inspired by the passion of his legacy, which has become bigger than he ever was now than when he was alive. With regards to timepieces, if you are not marketed properly and don’t have the right people in your corner, it can look like Christmas on the QVC network for bored housewives who haven’t been laid since the Carter Administration.

Within the last 10 years Harry Winston has been able to be taken very seriously amongst the avid watch collector. Why is that you may ask? Well it’s not because Harry Winston is making diamond studded knob rings that have a world timer function, it’s because of the partnerships formed and chosen in the very innovative Opus series. Since 2001, Harry Winston has partnered up with only the best horological masters in the watch industry including, F.P. Journe, Vianney Halter, And Claret to make the most complicated timepieces to compliment the versatility of they’re repertoire. This union with various watchmakers has given Harry Winston the legitimacy and power in the watch industry to be taken seriously as a watchmaker and innovator. This is not an easy thing to accomplish, especially when you are branded worldwide for something so recognizable. So many have tried to walk down this slippery road and have had dynamite blow up in they’re face like in the cartoons.

As a result of this, it has strengthened Harry Winston’s presence in the watch industry and allowed the company to delve into the passion project of making a tourbillon. I know Yawn right? Wrong! This is the coolest modern day tourbillon that I have ever seen, and I don’t like extreme modernity or Tourbillons at all. The watch is known as the Histoire de Tourbillon which is the first in a series of 5 complications limited to 20 pieces for the world, and is ONE BIG BASTARD of a watch! The specs on this watch are simple, concise and wrapped with a technical complication that has you thinking for days. The watch case is 48 mm, constructed out of white gold and Zalium, which is a very light weight, low density and highly durable material that was first used in aerospace is now exclusive for Harry Winston.

This watch is a visual orgasm, displaying two very distinct windows on the front, featuring a dual tourbillon side by side, countering the effects of gravity, ensuring extreme accuracy,because these two inclined single axis 25 degree Tourbillon’s are rapidly rotating at 36-second rotations. This is only possible because of each of the tourbillon components are extremely light, weighing only 0.46 grams and is made of 88 parts. The second part of the dial has an hours and minutes counter with a second hours,minutes and seconds counter displayed on the back with three separate windows. The watch is fitted with a black croco strap with black stitching to class up this incredible bold innovative complication.

With stats like this, it’s no wonder how Harry Winston a premier name in the jewelry industry has become sought after, diversified it’s portfolio from a Master Jeweler to a Master Watchmaker in a very short period of time, to not only give something to the ladies but give something substantial for the watch enthusiast to admire and desire for years to come!

pics courtesy of http://www.perpetuelle.com

Rocking It Old School!

Whether it’s the car I drive ,the music I listen to, or the watch that I wear, I have always like to Rock it old school. There is a certain energy I feel when I wear something from the past, except underwear of course. I feel invigorated and electricity running through my veins. You know, the kind of feeling you get when you arrive at the Casino in Vegas and the sweet smell of Strippers, Ah yes I digress. Anyway, much is the case with the new re-issue of the Panerai Pam00028 for this years SIHH 2009. I will say this has been a stellar year for the brand who has been trying oh so hard the last five years to keep on top of the madness around the cultish brand and at the same time find out who the hell they really are today. Before anything settles there are all kinds of fluctuations before staying at a steady calm level.

The PAM00028 is as good as it gets in my opinion, as far as re-issues go. This is very true to the original, made over ten years ago. Unlike Panerai Re-issue’s of the past they have kept everything exactly the same. They haven’t modified the dial to make it look cooler with giving it a sandwich dial or a linear power reserve. This watch is 44 mm PVD coated watch, which has all the elements I like in a timepiece, extreme bold masculinity, originality, and yes the power reserve indicator and hobnail dial help support my cause to a T.

The only thing not original is the luminosity, the 28 originally was treated with tritium which was banned because of it’s radioactive elements which has been replaced with superluminova which has been the standard in the last eight years because of it’s longer lasting durable visibility and safety. I guess I can handle that. I feel that the case should have been made in DLC (diamond like carbon) because it is hard as a rock, rather than PVD coating because over time PVD coating has the tendency to flake off and can cause serious hemorrhoids to get re-coated in the future, however that sort of vintage Italian navy look of the grey black case looks much more authentic in PVD. There is no sub seconds hand, it’s really simple and has a normal second hand with a circular luminescent disk near the tip for legibility in the dark just like the original.

The watch is completed with a matt black calf skin strap with black stitching for the ultimate in understatement. Oh yeah by the way just in case you were wondering this is a special edition of 1,000 pieces for the world, so if you haven’t ordered one yet, what the F are you holding your balls for, you should absolutely order it because this watch is guaranteed to be sold out and make history for the second time!

pic courtesy of http://www.panerai.com

1815, Time Has Finally Come Home

Change certainly has it’s merits. It gives us hope, restores faith and forces us to see shit we never saw before. This is the case, not only with the new president Barrack Obama, who gave one hell of a speech to the Nation after graciously being sworn in as 44TH President Of The United States, but in life in general. This also applies to fine timepieces. A Lange & Sohne being the finest watch in the world has adapted to change quite well in the last 10 years. There is always that inner struggle which conflicts a manufacturer to combine tradition,innovation and changing with the times. This year at SIHH, they made a change for the better. The 1815 series, which is they’re entry level price point has undergone many changes over the years. The 1815 has gone through different sizes, movements and dials. This new introduction for SIHH 2009 is by far the best. Keeping in line heritage and tradition while understanding the consumers needs of today.

So they’re answer is quite simple. They have introduced 4 different models in the 1815 collection available in 18K yellow gold, 18K rose gold, 18K white gold and of course the pinnacle in Platinum which is limited to 500 pieces for the world. When first released these watches were literally made to look like ladies watches at 36 mm. That was a different time, Today they have come full circle and are now finally available in a 40 mm size which is the way it should be. Lets be honest 40mm in a sports watch was considered large 5 years ago, and today 40 mm in a sports watch is considered almost Pansyish! A bigger more refined 40 mm dress watch provides elegance, sophistication and weariblity at the end of the day.

The 1815 is an important watch for A Lange & Sohne because it marks the historic year that the company began. The dials on all the 1815 models are argente made out of pure silver and have steel blue hands while the platinum version has a rhodium dial with gold rhodium plated hands to differentiate it from the white gold version. This stellar comeback for the 1815 keeps in mind the traditional values set by it’s founder Ferdinand Adolf Lange who’s motto was basically less is more. Even a new manual wind movement was created for this watch keeping the passion and spirit of fine German artistry at the helm of watchmaking.

The newly designed calibre L051.1 is comprised of 188 individual hand finished parts to perfection, and sits very comfortable withing the 40 mm case as it’s only 30.6 mm in diameter. This three handed beauty which includes hours and minutes and a sub seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position is complimented by black arabic numerals and an outer black railroad track for minutes. To see one in person is a visual wet dream and to own one will make you realize why time has fianlly come home.

pic courtesy of http://www.alange&sohne.com