ITS ABOUT TIME TO GET LOCKED UP

Sadly, the verdict is in for famed gangster I mean money embezzler Jacob Arabov of Jacob & Co. It appears this jeweler to the stars who is the mastermind behind the Oh so complicated five timezone watch in primary colors is being sentenced to two and a half years in prison which is scheduled to begin on January 15, 2009. The reason? Well, last year the jeweler plead guilty to giving false info and lying to the feds about money laundering $270 million in profit with others in drug trafficking in which those charges were dropped by the prosecution in exchange for the guilty plea. In my opinion he is being let off really easy, the judge has ordered him to pay a $50.000 fine and he has to cough up another $2 million in forfeiture to the government along with his two and a half year prison sentence which I am sure will get reduced based on who he is and how much he pulls up his socks!

My absolute favorite part in all of this is that he stated “I feel ashamed that I broke the laws of this country, a country that has been so good for me. I will carry this shame for the rest of my life.” I mean come on! As if I am sure when he was in his country it would be completely lawful to do what he did. Well despite the compelling statement he made, its really sad how money, greed and power could lead to such an awful turn of events.

Jacob, even though he is not my favorite character in the world because his lack of ethics and partial respect for true watchmaking, built an absolute empire with a vision and made millions doing it legally with the most incredible A-list celebrities endorsing his dream so we thought, but lets not be naive people, because of his dirty shady illegal activity and blatant greed factor its about time he got locked up! But just when you think its over you can pretty much bet this experiance will make him even more famous than he already is and probably be the best thing he ever did totally reinventing his career.

pic courtesy of http://www.nymag.com

A Valued Pilot

Consider that Pilots watches have been made for some time now. They all look the same, like cheap imitations of the originator IWC. For years IWC has made the very respected Fleigher Chrono Ref 3706 which became a standard for collectors and watch enthusiasts alike to aspire for. This being 38 mm was very reminiscent of the early Pilots watch from the WW2 era that IWC made. This Chrono was stainless steel, grayish black dial, sapphire crystal, solid caseback and had the day/date function rolled out at the three o’clock position written very much like the instrumentation in airplane cockpits. This watch came alive with the very reliable work horse that is the Valjoux 7750 movement which was highly modified to IWC specs and for years it stabilized around $4,000.

There was only one problem in my opinion the 3706 was way to small and not really that masculine and to be honest looked a lot like a Hamilton Kaki Automatic Chrono which you could buy for a couple hundred dollars, but then two years ago the ultimate surgery was performed when the watch got the much needed face lift it deserved. IWC reinvented their Pilots line replacing this Classic pilot 3706 with the new 3717 which in my opinion should have been watch of the year for 2006.

This watch was redefined with a bigger 42 mm stainless steel case, and amazing dial with a subtle but cool red second hand at 9 o’clock broke up the starkness of the dial, the day/date was inverted with white writing with black background instead of black writing with white background ensuring much better visibility, the hands were sword shaped and better finished and the German military symbol of the triangle at the 12 o’clock was finished with a dot on either side.

The most astonishing part was that IWC was so smart, that they kept the price the same at $4,000, upgraded their image completely and at the same time kept their integrity which built a demand, that would have people cuing up to buy this watch for months making this watch a valued pilot, and my favorite daily wearer of all time!

pics courtesy of http://www.iwc.ch

It’s About Time For History!

From 1860 to 1980 if you were a member of the Royal Italian Navy you wore a Panerai and in 1998 it became available to the public. These instruments were used as depth gauges, hence their size for legibility under water. Today there is no watch as bold, as iconic and in your face that can be worn everyday like a Panerai. The very first Panerais were known as Radiomir which was a substance that was used to luminate the dial so it would be seen at night by the famous Italian Military divers who would dive at all hours. This case was 45 mm and designed by Rolex for Panerai. Panerai till today has documentation stating the partnership at that time between the two companies. Rolex not only made the Radiomir cases, the original Radiomirs were first produced with original Rolex Ligne Movements which today are virtually untouchable and command up to $100,000 for the original ones.

Not to late after the Radiomir Panerai was called upon to make something heartier bolder and more stable that could survive impact and shock and did this with the release of their Luminor case which was very distinct from its predecessor in that it had a patented crown device at the side of the case which locked and protected the crown from getting damaged and served as an anti shock device and when pushed in sealed and made the watch water resistant to a certain depth. This watch was also different in that is had a numeral 9 and a sub second hand at the 9 o’clock position making it very bold and legible. This company was purchased by the Richmont group in 1998 for only one million dollars and today is worth hundreds of millions of dollars.
I wish I had a million dollars in 1998 to buy Panerai, what an amazing investment.

The Company is headed up by Mr Angelo Bonati who is the CEO worldwide, and is the genus master mind behind the success of the brand. He has stuck to his gut and made history and influenced so many other brands to make watches with much larger cases which seemed impossible due the conservative nature of the watch industry in the past. Almost two years ago Panerai unleashed there in house caliber movements which have been very well received and have legitimized Panerai as not only an innovator of large case watches and throwbacks to nostalgia as well as a true watch manufacturer.

The most amazing accomplishment of Panerai is that they have never paid anyone to wear their brand. Sylvester Stallone has become a friend of the brand. Before the brand was bought by Richmont Mr Stallone was in Florence and he stumbled across the first Panerai Boutique and was so impressed and intrigued by the brand that he purchased 300 watches as gifts to give to his friends and because of this Panerai has benefited greatly from the amazing exposure and press that surrounded it. Panerai’s way of saying thank you was making a watch called a sly tech which has become a cult favorite. There have been many to follow the lead of Sylvester Stallone, including Hugh Grant, Russell Crow, Orlando Bloom and The Rock to name a few, although Sly was the only one of these actors to have a watch named after him.

Around the same time as Panerai introduced their own in house movements they also were in collaboration with Ferrari to make a watch for them. The results in the beginning were extremely hot. This was very smart on Panerai’s part because they attracted an audience they may have not had before with Ferrari Enthusiasts. Using a case that they once had back in the day inspired by early Radiomir designs,Panerai was able to show the similarities between these incredible Italian machines in true passion and engineering. There was no mention of Panerai anywhere on the watch except for the deployment clasp which says engineered by Panerai. A very bold move on Panerai’s part because they wanted to make it clear that it was Ferrari’s watch made by Panerai. A good thing they did because this line is now being offered to retailers as a Carrot to those dealers who don’t have Panerai and want it have to first take this Ferrari line. Needless to say Ferrari even though interesting and limited not the best thing to come out of Panerai’s arsenal but quite an interesting way of using leverage to get new retailers to move Ferrari and acquire Panerai.

Finally, I will say that if your looking for a versatile watch with some serious inspiration, unique, historic masculinity thats in your face, you must buy yourself a Panerai because you will insure yourself not just a cool watch but an amazing investment with future!

pic courtesy of http://www.panerai.com

Calling All Watchmakers

OK, so I know that finding a good watchmaker these days is virtually impossible to find. I mean it’s really a dying art. I am all for watch brands priding themselves on having the best watchmakers in the world, but lets be honest this new ad for Omega’s watchmaker recruitment using George Clooney is just down right ridiculous.

I thought George Clooney was a classy actor with some nads, not some out of work actor that needs the money so he appears looking like a psycho in a watchmaker ad. I know there is supposed to be some sort of sex appeal about George Clooney,but I don’t think watchmakers can ever look sexy, creepy? definitely! I guess he is also the brand ambassador for Omega, and I suppose when you got a magic formula you try to milk it, but unfortunately for Omega this marketing tit has been dried out as far as I am concerned.

Omega should try and focus more on the brand itself and less on the people to try to regain some much needed momentum because they really are the best pure value in the watch industry today!

pic courtesy of http://www.omega.com

What’s All The Fuss About?

As far as supply and demand, there is no one in the watch industry today that controls it better than Rolex. Almost every professional Sport model they make is a shortage item and the reason The Rolex Stainless Steel Daytona. This watch set the example for every other watch brand in the last 30 years to follow how creating a demand is done. Every watch collector in the world whether they collect Rolex or not has to have The Stainless Steel Daytona in their collection because it stands for The Exclusive Status Symbol that appreciates in value. The fanaticism that surrounds this which is like any extreme religion where people are willing to stand in line like communism as long as 5 years just to have the opportunity to buy the watch.

So, how is this done? Well, in 1961 Rolex made the first Daytona. This was a stainless steel chronograph which Rolex trademarked as a Cosmograph which was similar but different in that the tachometer scale was printed or engraved on the outer bezel rather than on the outer border of the dial. This became very popular amongst the car enthusiast community because of how useful the watch was in calculating average lap speed. The very first models were available in an array of different dials of which some were considered exotic which was a black dial with white register subdials or cream with black register subdials featured square markers within the registers. These exotic dials were haled as Paul Newman Dials, the reason being because Paul Newman wore one of these in the 1969 car racing movie Winning. These watches immediately became very sought after in the Italian market and only sold for around $400 and today command anywhere between $50,000 to $100,000 depending on the dial.

In the mid 80’s early 90’s the watch became available only with black or white dials fitted with a Zenith El Primero movement which is one of the most reliable chronograph movements in the world which fetch anywhere between twelve to fifteen thousand dollars because even though the watch was not numbered there was an extremely limited supply which has fueled the demand for the last 20 years. This movement was changed in Early 2000 with an in house manufactured movement with a better constructed bracelet and today still goes for thousands over list price. Even though I don’t really wear a Rolex, owning a vintage Daytona with A Paul Newman Dial would be an absolute cream dream. With this cult icon engraved into history for over 30 years it should now totally clear up What the fuss is all about?

Alarm Bells Are Ringing

Watches with alarms today are quite weak with regards to selection and aesthetics, lets face it people, alarmed watches are either digital which just look revolting and cheap or some variation of sound between a whoopee cushion and a hand buzzer. The watch which has been able to withstand the test of time is the Jaeger Le Coultre Memovox.

Almost 5 years Ago JLC was reborn with the inception of their Compressor line of watches which were bigger and more masculine line of sport elegance watches with complication, basically taking their master line of refined wristwatches and putting them on steroids. The result was flawless, and the first icon reborn was the Compressor. The Memovox was originally made in 1956 and was the first wristwatch in the world to have a mechanical alarm. This alarm was truly outstanding using a bell and a hammer to make a sound that is guaranteed to wake you up!

Today this innovation is used in the Compressor Memovox which stands 42 mm in case diameter and is available in Stainless Steel, 18k Rose Gold and 18k white gold. This piece of Modern Masculine Horological sound has a black Arabic dial with luminescent hour markers and hands, 100 meters water resistant, an inner rotating bezel for diving an in house caliber movement with mechanical alarm and is fitted with a chocolate brown croco strap with double white stitching on either side for rich elegance as well as a folding buckle that preserves the longevity of the strap.

Personally if your going to buy this watch and want the ultimate in versatility, the one in stainless steel is the one to have and should be fitted with a honey brown croco strap which makes it perfect to wear in any situation. So just when you think the only option is to buy yourself a Timex I am hear to tell you to buy The JLC Compressor memovox because real mechanical alarm bells will be ringing.

pic courtesy of http://www.jagerlecoultre.com

Déjà vu

Well, It wasn’t that long ago that Rock Star watch brand IWC tested the limits of divers watches in 1999 with the robust engineering of the Deep One. Even though this titanium wonder was produced for a limited time, it definitely took notice of divers and admirers alike but didn’t really fly off the shelves. People were afraid and perplexed by the size and the function of what the watch actually did. Even though it didn’t seem like it at the time it was one of the smartest moves IWC ever made.

The watch standing 45 mm in case diameter was fitted with A Jaeger Le Coultre Base movement and featured a very cool complication which showed how deep the diver has descended with use of a mechanical depth gauge, which could only be possible by allowing water into the case and that pressure would then allow an internal ring to show an analog reading on the dial. No fine watch company had the creativity and balls like IWC to pull of something so big and well manufactured with purpose. Today The Deep One has become very collectible and a cult favorite amongst watch enthusiasts around the world and is the current inspiration for the entire Aquatimer line that IWC launched a few years back which has become a huge success. I mean how much more testosterone do you need? The watch was even packaged with a penis pump,I mean a pump that tested the accuracy of the depth gauge!

This was to followed up three years ago with the launch of the newly redesigned Aquatimer series headed up by the Aquatimer Split Minute which is the first of its kind in the world for a divers watch. Just like the deep one This 44 mm watch is only available in titanium, and features a Flyback mechanism that works independently of the chronograph with a patented little rocker switch on the opposite side of the case, making it really easy to turn this function on/off without any complication. The watch is 120 meters water resistant and includes a self-winding chronograph, inner rotating bezel for diving and can be clad on a rubber strap to fit any wrist or on the most comfortable titanium bracelet on the market which you can adjust yourself for the ultimate bit of self indulgence.

Even though it is a hair smaller than its older scarier brother the split minute does a fantastic job of combing useful complication, bold colorful dial and clever use of size, and yet still maintains it’s legacy from the past makes me have serious déjà vu!

pics courtesy of http://www.iwc.ch

Self Service

Like anything in life the toughest part of achieving things is maintaining what you have. The same holds true after buying a fine timepiece. When I got my first good watch I was on cloud 9. For me it was better than getting laid for the first time. I mean I was so elated,especially for the first year or two because owning a fine timepiece seemed extravagant and unreacheable,that I didn’t even realize how important it is to get my watch serviced and cleaned. At first I was so naive that I thought water resistant meant shower all you want with it, and abuse it in a hot tub. What the hell did I know I was only 17. After I got my first repair bill I nearly passed out because it was almost half the price of the watch.

I then realized quickly I was destroying the watch with my excitement and naivety of testing the waters of owning something so nice. I think it is crucial for anyone out there owning a nice timepiece to get it cleaned and repaired about every three to five years. To be honest a watch is like a car, if you don’t maintain and up keep it you will have to replace it very soon. You may ask yourself how do I even go about this? Don’t worry, I know this can be quite stressful, but believe me once you do it you will feel a million times better. The best way to do it is go to the dealer you purchased it from and go to their repair department.

A good repair department will tell you everything you need to know. Be sure to ask questions and don’t be afraid. Having worked in retail over the years one thing I will say is please be patient. Fine timepieces are not built in a day, take into account what goes into making a nice watch and you will understand. I didn’t have much respect for watch makers when I was younger, but when I woke up and had the opportunity to attend watchmaking classes for the best watch companies in the world,I know I got really spoiled but hey my faith and respect was immediately restored. I will say this just to save yourself time and money make sure you don’t shower or go in a Jacuzzi with any watch because you will destroy it. Swimming is absolutely fine, but hot water will kill the watch because most water resistant watches have rubber gaskets, when exposed to hot water they expand and contract and do it enough times they will break causing water to get in ensuring a hefty bill to correct the problem.

I often hear if the watch is not broken don’t fix it. It really depends. To be honest send it in for service so it won’t break. Remember an automatic or manual wind watch have many parts that have been oiled and regulated so the watch runs smoothly, after working for three to five years the oils dry up and the watch has to work harder to perform the same function, which can result in loosing or gaining time. In most cases what happens when a watch goes for servicing is that the movement is completely disassembled and the parts get chemically bathed and watever parts need replacing get replaced and then the movement is reassembled, lubricated and resealed and retested for accuracy which can take time.

So, at the end of the day it is in your best interest to do yourself the service of getting your watch cleaned regularly so that it lasts a lifetime!

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

Swatch was a rare phenomenon that transcended the watch industry in the early 80’s, and is the very reason why we have a Swiss watch industry today. Once seen as disposable inexpensive art on the wrist became engraved as a huge piece of pop culture today. In the eighties with the revolution of quartz battery driven watches, there was really no Swiss watch industry. People were wearing cheap quartz watches made in Japan. Swatch came in and sparingly emerged showing that a reliable Swiss watch could be made efficiently and cost effective blowing out the Japanese quartz movements and starting a hysteria that has influenced many alike.

The Swatch Group is majority owned by Nicholas Hayek which along with Swatch owns Omega, Tissot, Longines, Hamilton, Rado, Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet-Droz and German manufacturer Glasshutte Original. They also own the dial and case companies which manufacture close to 80% of the world dials and watch cases. In addition they own Movement Companies, ETA,Valjoux and Lemania. This Swiss Company formed in 1983 is the biggest watch manufacturer in the world.

This company employees approximately 24,000 people worldwide with sales in 2007 reaching a staggering 6 billion dollars. As of late because of the rule governed by Swiss courts this company has a monopoly on the watch industry and all companies which rely on the Swatch Group for movements can no longer purchase movements from The Swatch Group and must become self reliant as of 2010 which will force watch companies to develop their own movements which will be very expensive to produce hence driving up the price of basically all watch companies.

So the next time you think of Swatch Group even though at times seems like an evil empire, just think how they started with a plastic $40 watch and now has become the leader of the watch industry which is responsible for saving an art and passion which fuels so many people today!

Scroll Down Chapter 1

What is Chapter 1? Chapter one is always the start of something new and different. In this case the Chapter1 is the first timepiece to be released by new watch maker Maitres Du Temps which is collaboration of three masters in watch making. Mr. Christophe Clare who plays the complex role of the innovator and developer, who most definitely has the most sought after complicated movements in his repertoire the world will ever see,Mr Roger Dubuis who has been a seasoned veteran as a master watch maker for Patek Phillipe for 14 years and has always challenged the fundamentals of watch making to construct something unique with his own brand bearing his name while still keeping the elements of traditional watch making alive and lastly Mr Peter Speake-Marin who is an Englishman who left for Switzerland at a young age to cultivate his passion and broaden his vision for watches by working under renowned complication specialists Renaud & Papi which is the movement manufacturer which is owned and operated By non other than Audemars Piguet.

The union of these three minds has resulted in the most traditional values of craftsmanship and yet still owning a piece of modernity in the New Chapter!. This touneau shaped case is 46.6mm made out of 18k rose gold with a double coated anti reflective crystal on the front and back.

This technical marvel features, Central hands indicating hours and minutes Central chronograph counterpoised second hand 60-minute counter at 12 o’clock Retrograde date at 3 o’clock Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock position, One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock position, Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock position with Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock position. So many brands get lost and confused on colliding the worlds of old watchmaking and modern ideas but the Chapter one does it flawlessly making it seem like it was done so seamlessly without effort making chapter one a must read!

pic courtesy of www. maitre du temps